I have a new definition for the word "Majestic" and it is found within the Mount Kenya National Park. Five days spent climbing a mountain that helped to bring two months in Africa full circle. Many thoughts and revelations. Many hopes and prayers. I feel like I know where I am going and what I am supposed to do. I am excited to return home. Excited to start new.
Not exactly sure what the best way is to describe my five days on the mountain. Hoping that the pictures I've posted do most of the explanation. Maybe it makes the most sense to simply write a little bit about each day. Here goes nothing:
Day 1: Arrived in Nanyuki by matatu on the northern edge of the mountain. The elevation was about six thousand feet and already the air temperature seemed to drop. The mountain was covered in clouds and it was difficult to imagine that a mountain even existed in the middle of the flat and dusty farm land that makes up central Kenya.
Met guides Nelson and Kim. Two brothers that have been climbing Mount Kenya since the mid nineties and both look like they should play in the NFL. I was a little bit scared of them until I heard them laugh. Very good guys to climb a mountain with. Four porters also joined the trip. A big crew to help two young guys (Brett came too. He was an ICODEI volunteer) climb to seventeen thousand feet.
Drove up to the Park Gate at Sirimon and began a climb up a ruff road amidst zebra's, elephant droppings, and a bamboo forest. Nine kilometers uphill and we arrived at Old Moses Camp where we spent our first night. At just above ten thousand feet you could begin to feel the altitude in your lungs. Three liters of water and a little bit of Tylenol helped to fight off the headaches. Our camp was perched just above the tree line and provided a fantastic view of the foothills leading up to the mountain. Never have I seen so many rays of sunshine pierce through the clouds. Beautiful. In bed early as I hadn't slept much throughout the previous three days.
Day 2: Up at sunrise and hiking by eight a.m. Packs felt heavy but the pain was soon forgotten as the scenery began to improve. Each step became harder and harder as day two proved to be the most difficult. Eighteen kilometers in total, through dense grasslands and a ruff stone trail. Crossed many clear mountain streams and entered a giant valley that lead towards the mountain peaks. Incredibly beautiful.
Bad headaches at Shiptons Camp eight hours later. Sitting at fourteen thousand feet it took four liters of water and three cups of tea help heal and acclimatize my body. Began to realize that climbing a mountain in an old pair of running shoes wasn't the best idea. But the view of the peaks at sunset and night sky that followed made everything worth while.
Day 3: Summit Day. Didn't sleep much as the amount of water I had consumed the previous day managed to keep me awake once every thirty minutes. The only benefit found was in the stars. So dense. So beautiful. It was nearly impossible to miss a shooting star at that elevation. Many wishes were made.
Started our climb just after sunrise. The temperature was much colder despite Kim and Nelsons desire to reach the summit in hiking shorts. The pace was slow but necessary. Each step followed by a pause to allow oxygen flow through my veins. Stopped a few times to add layers of clothing as the temperature began to drop below freezing. Five liters of water and many short stops along the way.
Reached the summit of Point Lenana just before eleven o'clock amidst thick cloud cover. Seventeen thousand feet is two miles higher than mile high stadium in Denver, CO and also the same elevation as the base camp for Mount Everest. The elevation put everything into perspective. Within minutes the sky opened up and sunshine lit all valleys that lead up to the mountain top. The local tribe that lives near Mount Kenya believes that God lives amongst the peaks. I can see why. They pray facing the mountain. So I prayed too. And took many pictures.
Descended on the western side of the mountain near the glacier. Unbelievable beauty. Unbelievable pain. I would much rather have kept ascending as each step down wore on my ankles and shins. Many stops were needed to take in the view. At Mackinder's camp by three p.m. Sunset below the mountain and above the clouds. I will never forget.
Day 4: Continued a hike down the Naro Moru valley just as the sun came over the mountain ridge. Complete with grasslands, bogs, and bamboo forests. Each step memorable. Each step filled with reflection. Sixteen kilometers later we reached "The Met" for our final night. The small meteorological station is home to monkeys and buffalo. I found a four leaf clover near my tent. Was excited to wash my face in warm water.
Day 5: A nine kilometer hike to the Naro Moru park gate. Saw a guest house with a mountain view to die for. Hope to return to stay a few nights. One final picture with guides and porters so make the trip complete. A short matatu ride back to Nanyuki and then Nairobi.
If anybody is interested in climbing Mount Kenya please let me know.
The experience is so much more meaningful than a Safari filled with
tourists. I also know two great guides who would love to reach the
summit again. Incredibly worth every step.
Would like to provide more details and more revelations. But thinking that it would simply be better to share some of the stories and experiences first hand when I arrive home. Hopefully my level of detail is sufficient for the time being.
Three more days.